Overview of Turkish Ferace: Women’s Outer Coat/Garment

Instructions may be copied as long as proper credit is given to Jennifer Davis
This pattern is based upon an outer coat I saw in a Turkish miniature. The coat is called a Ferace in Turkish.[1] The ferace, an overcoat, is frequently described in text or illustrated as being black in color – however, the one in this miniature is not black. Fortunately, this allows us to see the detail of the coat that much better!

The pattern is a combination of patterns I have seen from extant garments as well as the paintings found in miniatures. I have placed the seams according to extant pieces in the Topkapi Museum – while none of the extant garments are ferace themselves, the structure is similar enough that I have based the seam placement for the ferace off these outer, or outdoor coats.

The ferace is fully lined in fur, which is obvious in the miniature as well as described in observations from the period. It clearly has pockets placed at about hip level, and you can see the woman’s hand placed inside one of the pockets. The ferace is long-sleeved, though it has openings at the shoulder seams for the wearer to place her arm through. The coat ends at about “tea” length, or a couple inches above the ankle.

Measuring

In order to make the ferace, or outdoor coat, you will need approximately 4 yards of heavy-weight fabric (such as wool) and an equal amount of fur or fake fur fabric.

  • Measure the width of your body from shoulder point to shoulder point. This is the width of the back panel. Divide this number by two, since you will fold the fabric lengthwise when cutting the fabric. Ferace
  • Measure your height from shoulder point to the length you want the ferace – this should hit a couple inches above your ankles. This is the length of the back and front panels.
  • To make the front panels, fold the right sides of the fabric facing each other. The top width of the front panel will be about the same as half the width of your back panel. The bottom width will be slightly wider, forming a trapezoidal shape, though how much wider is up to your discretion and figure.
  • Measure from your waist to where you want the garment to end at your ankles. This will be the height of your side gores. Cut 4 of these in a triangle shape, anywhere from 4 inches wide at the bottom to 10 inches wide. (The wider the piece, the more your coat will flare/be fuller at the bottom.) In the miniature, the coat has minimal flare, so I tend to lean towards the narrow side of the gore.
  • Measure you arm from shoulder point to about an inch below the wrist. This is the length of your sleeve.
  • Measure yourself from shoulder point to a handspan below your breasts. Double this number for the full width of your sleeve, OR make sure to fold the fabric in half horizontally and then use the exact measurement for the width of the sleeve.


    • Construction

  • Sew the side gores (on the straight vertical edge) to the front panel on either side of the garment. Repeat for the back panel.
  • Sew the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders.
  • Sew the sleeves to the *back panel ONLY* at the shoulder. Remember, this is left open in front for the arm to stick through if desired.
  • Starting from the cuff of the sleeve, sew one continuous line from sleeve edge, along sleeve bottom, down the body and upper torso, and then along the gores of the garment, connecting the front panel to the back panel. Don’t forget to leave a gap open for pockets, if you want to add pockets to the garment! (The miniature does depict pockets)


    • ferace