Red silk Joba with Tiraz Embroidery


This garment was worn by both men and women. It was an optional, outer
coat. The katibi had either short sleeves or long sleeves with a slit
for the arm to pass through. This garment is cut in a period manner. Please
see Persian Patterns, Joba
for full details on the construction of the joba. The joba is made of
red, raw silk. Raw silk was used in period, though probably not for nobility.
I could not afford silk brocade of silk satin to make this garment, so
I used the raw silk. The garment is lined in orange 5mm habatoi silk.
I hand dyed both the raw silk and the lining, but with commercial dyes.
In period, lac beetles would have been used to make the red and the orange
would have come from any number of dyes. Please see Clothing,
Female Garments for more information. Tiraz embroidery was completed
in Persia and shipped to the Caliphate in Africa in the 9th century. Typically,
tiraz contained praises to the wearer. I translated the following English
phrase into modern Farsi:
Roxane Farabi, graced to rule the lands of the East twice by the blessed
Shah, the servant of God, Darius Aurelius Serpentius. Wisdom from God.
Aid from God. There is no God but Him. May God grant her wisdom
I completed the Tiraz embroidery in chain stitch with silk floss. This
is one of the three stitches commonly seen in Tiraz embroidery. Please
see the article on the website on embroidery for full documentation regarding
Persian embroidery.