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Perfumes in Medieval Persia

 

 

Perfumes were used by both men and women in medieval Persia. [1]  Sir Chardin, a French jeweler who traveled to Persia in the 1600’s, remarked that

 

Persian Women are, for the most part, very Prodigal in Perfumes.”[2]

 

Perfumes were used both on the person and wherever a pleasant smell was desired.  Common perfumes were musk, ambergrease, rose water, Labdamum, and Frankincense.[3]

 

Musk is an excretion from an animal which is found in a small gland near the navel of a goat.  This excretion is released when the animal is in heat.  According to Sir Chardin, musk from Tibet was considered the best.  Musk was also imported into Persia from China and India.[4]

 

Musk was believed to be an aphrodisiac.  Women in Persia also believed it would cure illnesses such as the vapors.  They would hang some of it around their neck. Sir Chardin described the method women used the musk.

 

“[The women would hang] a bladder of it around their Navel and when the Vapors are violent and continual, they take Musk out of the Bladder and inclose it in a little piece of single Holland, made in the fashion of a small Bag or Purse, and apply it to the Part, which Modesty will not permit me to Name.”[5]

 

Ambergrease was also used as a perfume in Persia as well as in cooking.  Ambergrease is a substance thrown up on the shores from whales. It is found in the Near and Far East, Africa and along the coasts of Russia.  Englebert Kaempfer in 1727 described the various consistencies in which ambergrease came in:

 

Some sorts of Ambergrease are like course Bitumen, or Asphaltus, or the black Naphta dried, consequently more or less black and heavy, and of a different consistence in proportion.  Other sorts are whiter, from a mixture of nobler particles: These are also lighter and dearer, and this again in differing proportions.  Some sorts are exceedingly light, and not unlike a mushroom.”[6]

 

In Medieval Persia, it was commonly made into a paste and placed in a box hung on chains which women wore around their neck. [7]

Ambergrease along with rose water, labdamum, and jessamin were used as part of ceremony to great guests.  Upon a guest entering a home, the host would pour a bottle of rose water over the guest. The very wealthy would also pour another bottle of water colored with saffron.  If the guest was wearing a white outfit, the bottles would be given to the guest to apply themselves.  The host would then rub labdamum and ambergrease upon the guest.  The ceremony ended when the host placed a large string of jessamin around the neck of the guest.[8]  Jessamine is another name for jasmine.  Jasmine was considered to have healing properties.[9]

 



[1] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pg. 229

[2] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pg. 229

[3] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pgs. 140, 229, 230

[4] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pg. 229

[5] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pg. 151

[6] History of Japan, Englebert Kaempfer, London 1727, pg. 49

[7] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin

[8] Travels in Persia, Sir John Chardin, pg. 230

[9] http://www.madgalin.com/herbal/plants_pages/i-k/jessamin.htm